The cover of the latest, much admired Vittles magazine displays a mocked-up tombstone bearing the inscription: ‘In affectionate remembrance of Food Writing, born 1825, died 2026. Deeply lamented by a dwindling circle of friends and well-wishers.’ Inside is an essay that dives deep into the theme of influence and influencers and the effect this kind of advertising – it is rarely independent thought – has on food media. Vittles’s argument is that there’s not much to cut out and keep these days. Still, the cult of the cook book fights on, even if it’s shrunk like a jumper in a hot wash. A great cook book can be the most joyous read of all – my thoughts, having just put down Jeremy Lee’s Kitchening: Day-to-Day Good Food, Come Rain or Shine (Fourth Estate, £30).