Spectator Life

Spectator Life

An intelligent mix of culture, style, travel, food and property, as well as where to go and what to see.

Maybe Pope Francis had a point about dog culture

Dennis is having a little holiday with a sitter in Kent because I’m in Italy, a meandering trip from Rome to Florence and then Venice via Chianti. Unfortunately, I realise on day one that I’ve become the sort of unhinged tourist who accosts people with dogs. In Rome’s Piazza Navona, I spot an elderly Parson terrier ambling stiffly over the cobbles and hurry over to its middle-aged owner, chic in her silk neck scarf and quilted jacket.   ‘I have the same in London,’ I say, thrusting my phone at her and pointing at the screen. She’s very gracious and we have a faltering conversation in which I learn that her rough-coated Parson is called Lola and she’s ten years old. In a Montepulciano wine bar, I meet a Boxer called Evie.

I’m mourning the loss of BBC Sounds

Provence The other Friday, via the reader comments section, I was contacted by a chap, Simon, inviting me to attend a piano concert in the next village, the proceeds of which were going to those affected by the recent wildfires. I was thrilled, Radio 3 is on at home 16 hours a day sometimes. Especially since those heartless wankers at the BBC pulled the plug on the Sounds app last year for people outside the UK. Living abroad has its advantages. The cave here above the medieval village feels right to me: safe, quiet, unique – and the terrace has a terrific view. And being so tiny and south-facing, it’s relatively inexpensive to heat and maintain, but it can be isolating.

Leave Laura Kuenssberg alone

I'll never forget seeing a fellow in Las Vegas - a veritable man-mountain - wearing a T-shirt which bore the legend 'NO FAT CHICKS'. I thought at first that it might be a joke, but when other men gave him a high-five, he glowed with porky pleasure. Not a ‘Yeah, ironic, right?’ or a cupping of his manly breasts to be seen. Though extreme, it was just the ultimate and logical version of one of the last double standards: ugly men judging female pulchritude in a way ugly women never rate male good looks - or the lack of such. It was recently exemplified by the ‘DAVID BLUNKETT!’ response beloved by social media wags in the wake of Laura Kuenssberg’s recent teasing (preceding her forthcoming memoir) that a politician had once perhaps proffered an unwanted threesome.

Agatha Christie is still the Queen of Crime

Half a century after her death, the crime and mystery novelist and playwright Agatha Christie still rejoices in the nickname ‘the Queen of Crime’. It is not hard to see why. Not only has she sold two billion copies of her works internationally – with another two decades to go before her books go into the public domain, she will remain big business for her estate up until 2046 – but she remains vastly influential in fields that she could not even have contemplated while she lived. Christie was never more than an efficient prose stylist, who preferred to concentrate on creating indelible characters Without Christie, there would be no Traitors, no Thursday Murder Club and no vogue for celebrities to write hugely variable novels in the ‘cosy crime’ genre.

Burnham’s pledge to end rough sleeping is doomed

In 1983, having fought with my stepfather, I spent a night beneath the stars. Having run away from Yorkshire to London with a few pounds I’d saved working, I slept in a bed and breakfast but soon ran out of money. When a policeman kicked me awake in Victoria Station, I decided the coast might be an easier proposition. So it was that one night, after hitching across Sussex, I curled up in a bush near a railway station called Three Bridges. I was 16. Though I had known homelessness as a toddler with my teenage mum – sleeping in tents, communes and squats – and would experience insecure housing over the following years, as far as I can remember, that was the only night I had absolutely no choice but to sleep rough.

Celebrities can’t speak properly

All three surviving Traitors in the flame-lit final episodes of the BBC’s Celebrity Traitors pronounced the word ‘traitor’ as ‘trai’or’. They’d been ‘recrui’ed’, for better or for worse, and had ‘had the hea’ pu’ on them’ at various times throughout the series. ‘This is the final murder and it’s really impor’an,’ said Maya Jama at midnight in the turret. ‘I’m not goin’ down wivou’ a figh’. I’m ge’in’ shivers,’ said Kenny. The habitual dropping of the ‘t’-sound is an affectation, even if a subconscious one To me, the lack of a ‘t’-consonant really lets these celebrities down. Of course, they can and sometimes do pronounce the letter ‘t’: they always say it at the beginning of any ‘t’-word.

The Auctioneer

When Freddie Bampfylde became Chairman of Christoby’s UK, the first thing he did was get rid of the desk in the mahogany-panelled study which became his with the new role. As he told a journalist from the Telegraph, he needed a much larger desk to accommodate Johnny the Antelope, the huge, purple antelope head by Damien Hirst which he strokes for luck before he takes an auction. He is also rather fond of the photograph of him dressed as Batman taking an auction at the Royal Hospital in aid of the Pensioners and has placed it next to the silver-framed photograph of his wife, children and pugs sitting on the sweeping stone steps leading to the doors of his house, Evenlode.

How the French embraced Halloween

The third round of protests in France takes place this Saturday. Participants are being urged to come dressed for Halloween. Social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram are teeming with memes about the upcoming ‘Night of Darkness’. Oh, and don’t forget to wear a mask. If the French weren’t depressed already, what with the riots and looting during the first two weekends of protest, now comes further evidence that they have lost the cultural war to America. French baby boomers were more open-minded about America than their parents Halloween was popularised Stateside in the middle of the 19th century, although in 1876 The New York Times declared that the festival was in danger of dying out. It rallied.

Gen Z is falling for the Soviet Union

The USSR is striking back. Nearly forty years after its collapse, there are a growing number of young people in the West who are now avid enthusiasts of the Soviet Union. Curiously, this is a somewhat apolitical phenomenon. Lenin and Stalin apologism still remains the preserve of the chubby, the slobby, the grizzled and the graduate student, no matter how avidly they wave their flags at protests. Instead, Soviet culture and style have become decidedly in vogue, whether that be the resurgence of the Slavic doll look, schoolboys making TikToks to the USSR national anthem, or viral videos of abandoned Communist buildings. Defanged and denuded of its political belief system, Soviet aesthetics are decidedly cool.

Why Gulliver’s Travels has endured for three centuries

This October marks three hundred years since Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels first exploded onto the world, in all its scabrous, coarse brilliance. It’s a strange book: a melange of journey narratives, utopias, satire, proto-science-fiction and fantasy, which renders its success all the more unusual. Dean Swift (a notable man of letters and an anarchic Tory) was a playful chap. He arranged its publication pseudonymously, with the help of Alexander Pope. Yet it did not take long for Swift’s authorship to come out; even before then, the first edition sold hotter than hot cakes, reprinting within a week. Eventually, it became one of the most reprinted works in history.

Why continuation novels need to end

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle was, at the end of his life, a committed Spiritualist, and so knew all about authors writing posthumously from the Other Side. But he might still have been taken aback by Sherlock, a book of short stories which has a profile of the great man on the cover in his distinctive deerstalker and meerschaum. Closer inspection shows it to be ‘authorised by the Conan Doyle Estate’ rather than authored by A. Conan Doyle, but the reader’s first response is, goodness, is there more Sherlock out there? It’s a bid by the literary estates of the authors to squeeze more from their authors once the original copyright expires At second glance, you see: ‘Ten New Stories, Ten Incredible Writers; the Game is Afoot…Again’.

Can we still enjoy The History Boys?

Should we be horrified that The History Boys, Alan Bennett’s 2004 play about a grammar school class applying to Oxbridge in the 1980s, is to be revived for a 16-week run at the Theatre Royal Haymarket next year? It was, after all, voted the nation’s favourite play in 2013. But it comes with a very big problem, which is inevitably going to attract negative attention when put on stage now: it revolves around a pederast schoolmaster who is portrayed extremely sympathetically, even to the point of making him the hero of the piece. An awful lot has happened in the field of public opinion on that subject over the past two decades.

The Wild Swimmer

Rosie smiles when her nephew asks her if she’s still swimming in the sea in October.  It is, in fact, when she starts enjoying it again. July and August are all very well, but her spot behind the harbour wall fills up with holidaymakers, annexing the rock where she likes to change, having picnics and jumping into the sea with their children, as if they were swimming for fun. It’s not Cold Water Swimming if the sea feels warm, even to tourists who aren’t swimming mindfully. A few of these incomers stick it out for September but October is what separates the men from the boys. Or the women from the girls, rather. For nine months of the year, Porthemmet Beach is as empty of men as Rosie’s pottery class.

The town where Europe committed suicide

Have you ever heard of Gorizia? Probably not, and yet it is decidedly pretty. It sits in the far north-eastern corner of Italy, where the Latin map frays into the Slavic. The centre is all pink arcades, pistachio green shutters, and palazzi painted in faded yellow. Beyond everything is the great pale wall of the Julian Alps.  The town has had at least three names - Gorizia, Görz, Gorica - because for centuries it was Habsburg, then Austro-Hungarian. That is to say: it was a quintessentially multilingual city, full of Italians, Slovenes, Friulians, Germans and Jews, halfway between Trieste and Vienna. Some called it the ‘Austrian Nice’. Imperial officials came here to die of tranquil old age.

Oxford has fallen. Blame the traffic filters.

Amid the myriad conspiracy theories swirling around last month when Harry and Meghan withdrew their children from an Oxfordshire prep school after a mere two days, there is one that has not been sufficiently priced in. If the school itself was based in North Oxford – as has been rumoured – then Hal ‘n’ Megs would have first fallen foul of the congestion charge that has been half-heartedly implemented in the city, and, as of 28 September, the deadly traffic filters. These have been rumoured for years but, only now have they finally reared their ugly heads. Their advent was delayed because of a similar piece of appalling town planning – the years-long closure of the Botley Road, Oxford’s main artery to the west – but now they have finally arrived.

Fashion has never had a conscience

What a difference a month makes. From September 28 to October 6, Paris thrilled to the spectacle of their annual fashion week showing clothes for Spring/Summer 2027. Many stars were there; even the ‘radical’ ones, such as Dua Lipa at Chanel. Naomi Campbell got around on a Lime bike - followed by a bodyguard minding her £85,000 handbag on a second one, an image which sums up the hypocritical elitism of the occasion beautifully.   Paris Fashion Week overlapped slightly with the first peaceful protests in the French capital about such issues as teacher shortages.

Beware the European car finance con

Next time you pull up alongside a shiny new BMW 3 Series, don’t look at the driver with envy. Regard them as pitiful owners of a magnificent failing financial delusion. Around 95 per cent of new UK cars now find owners through fleet or contract purchase schemes. It’s a monetary sedative disguising how we rent a depreciating block of steel for £450 a month, blind to being taken for a colossal global ride.  The current mainstream narrative is comforting: cars are expensive because of inflation and supply chain problems – with a few carrots for right-leaning thinkers about eco-levies, union interference and nasty Russians. It’s a neat lie. The reality – according to figures for bodies like Germany’s Center of Automotive Management – is more spectacular.

Why do we want our food to lie to us?

A tube of Pringles sits before me. It’s an odd blue-green colour, has a candy-cane question mark curled across its front and, in all-caps lettering just beneath the logo, the words ‘Santa’s Secret Flavour’. Which sounds frankly unappetising. Yet this is just one of a growing number of mystery-flavoured snacks currently on supermarket shelves: crisps, ice creams and other sweet treats committed to keeping their contents under wraps. What’s going on? When did we start playing Russian roulette with our palates and — more to the point — who’s paying good money for food that could taste of, well, anything?  From Gatorade and Chupa Chups to Fanta and SunnyD, several such cryptic products have been rolled out by brands in the past year.

How bare knuckle fighting took on boxing

Anyone who watches the former IBF featherweight and Commonwealth boxing champion Lee Selby enter the ring for his next big fight, in London in November, may be forgiven for thinking all that being bashed around the head has left him with a touch of amnesia. It will seem as though he’s forgotten his gloves.  In fact Selby - who remains as sharp as his jab - is simply partaking in his second career, as a bare knuckle boxer. For those not up with the increasingly esoteric world of sport, the sweet science of bruising, as traditional boxing was once called, is fast being over-shadowed by the sweet science of blood-letting.

Lime Bike jousting is a noble sport

London Fields, East London. Saturday the 17th of October. A slight north-northeastern wind is blowing. The sky is overcast, with a drizzle earlier in the day making the ground slightly softer than usual, but still firm enough to get a good grip. Perfect weather for the joust to make a return, after six hundred painstakingly long years. At long last, the beautiful game is back. Here we are in heaven. Like many things in the last six centuries, the mechanics of the joust have changed. Where men used to ride on warmblooded chargers and destriers, the Fourth Industrial Revolution has had its way and transformed their steeds into equally noble Lime Bikes – the iconic green rental bicycle that plagues London’s pavements and gives transit to its most downwardly mobile residents.

We don’t need five podcasts on the Russell Brand trial

There was some dramatic testimony during the first week of Russell Brand’s trial and we didn’t need to miss a moment of the action because there are five – five – podcasts reporting daily from the courtroom. Brand faces three charges of rape, three of sexual assault and one of indecent assault, all of which he denies.  On the BBC’s Russell Brand on Trial, Anoushka Mutanda-Dougherty gives a breathless daily commentary on the trial, which is expected to last eight weeks. Minnie Stephenson lends an authoritative, let’s-get-down-to-business vibe to Channel 4’s Four The Record: Russell Brand on Trial. Sky News have their own Russell Brand On Trial series, which finds room for details such as the ‘basic’ coffee in the courtroom canteen.

Nights out are dying out

Nobody likes being asked for their ID once they are over the age of 25, unless they flatter themselves that it’s because they genuinely look younger than they are. For many years, unless going abroad, I’ve simply stopped carrying ID. I’m over the age of 18, don’t carry a wallet and frequent the same pubs in Westminster sufficiently regularly that the prospect of being turned away for failing to produce a driving licence has rarely seemed worth worrying about. Perhaps the next generation has decided that a night out is simply too expensive But there are always some overzealous watchmen. A few weeks back, I found myself in Northallerton at a bar named The Potting Shed, where a bouncer seemed determined to establish whether I was legally entitled to drink.

Long live the Prince Charles Cinema!

Sometimes, unexpectedly good news comes from nowhere. So it has proved with the happy tidings that the Prince Charles Cinema in Leicester Square has been saved. After a long and uncertain 21-month period in which it looked as if the cinema’s lease might be prematurely curtailed or simply ended altogether, the company has signed a new 25-year lease, sans break clause, with Zedwell PSQ Ltd, the building’s owner. This brings to a welcome end the uncertainty that began in January 2025, when the lease, which was due to expire last September, looked as if it might not be renewed on its present terms. The landlords attempted to introduce a six-month break clause that could be exercised at any time.

The Architect

Damien is an architect. Architecture is the second oldest profession, with notable affinities to the first. This morning, he has been on his houseboat, a retired Dutch barge moored in Wandsworth, finishing the text of his important new book Parametric Praxis: tectonics at the end of history. Theoretically speaking, he has been pushing the envelope with this one.   The barge, called Asymptote, is his pied-a-mer (as he likes to put it) when not in his cabanon in the Var. In Provence Damien ejected a grumbling shepherd, cleared out the peasant detritus, inserted a ground-source heat-pump and had the rustic interior coated in blinding white Corian. Naturally, it has been featured in Architectural Digest.

Why I’ll never give up on diesel

Last time I filled up, I actually staggered when I looked at the display screen I have an addiction that is increasingly expensive to feed. My poison of choice is an intoxicating chemical compound called Hexadecane. Street name: ‘diesel’. After Marlboro Lights and my husband, it’s the longest committed relationship of my life. It is vital to my well-being. Bouncing around the lanes in my old Discovery 4 makes me happy. Sometimes I will play 'Fuel' by Metallica (‘Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire'). But it comes at a cost.    Diesel prices are now so high (around £2 a litre) that the last time I filled up, I actually staggered when I looked at the display screen. I’d only meant to put in £50 but got distracted doomscrolling.

Good riddance to Sally Rooney

Sally Rooney must be delighted that her novels are being pulled from British shelves over her support for Palestine Action. This woman is never happier than when denying people the chance to read her books or those of others. She has previously refused to allow her work to be translated into Hebrew and has brought the Edinburgh and Hay book festivals to the brink of financial ruin by backing a boycott of their main sponsor, Baillie Gifford. Unlike many of her fellow authors, Rooney is successful enough not to have to actually sell books to make a living, and good on her. But British readers should celebrate too, since we are now relieved of any feeling of responsibility to read her.

Pay no attention to a restaurant’s hygiene rating

Colonel Saab is not your average curry house: the tasting menu costs £90, and a giant fish tank is nowhere to be seen. Its starry clientele, who include Jude Bellingham and Keir Starmer, may therefore have been alarmed by recent reports that the restaurant closed temporarily after receiving a zero food hygiene rating (the lowest on the Food Hygiene Rating Scheme) from Westminster Council. But if my experience is anything to go by, they shouldn’t hesitate to visit more eateries on the council’s naughty list.   This year, in the name of social media engagement, I’ve eaten at 13 zero or one-star-rated restaurants and counting. Some have been a tad suspicious.

Was I dumped for being a Zionist?

You may have seen those online questionnaires which calculate where on the political spectrum you are - not the fun ones, where you can find out which eighteenth century faction you’d have been in (High Church Tory, obviously), but the ones that gather your responses to a series of dogmatic assertions, generally about American politics.    You may not have seen - because I’m guessing the algorithm only pitches thus to single people - their latest adverts, which suggest that you should require potential partners to use this service before you meet. Why waste time on a coffee date with someone to whom you are not politically aligned?

Forget Paddington, Winnie-the-Pooh is our national bear

Today makes the centenary of the publication of A.A. Milne’s Winnie-the-Pooh, which brought the bear of little brain to the world’s attention. It was not, in truth, the ubiquitous ursine’s first appearance – that would be Milne’s nearly-as-beloved When We Were Very Young, which came into the nation’s bookshops in 1924 – but that featured a rather cloying poem called ‘Teddy Bear’, featuring ‘Mr Edward Bear’, who would, if he was born today, probably need to go on the Ozempic:  ‘A bear, however hard he tries, Grows tubby without exercise. Our Teddy Bear is short and fat, Which is not to be wondered at.