Ruaridh Nicoll

Ruaridh Nicoll is the former editor of the Observer Magazine and the author of two novels, White Male Heart and Wide Eyed.

How to eat in Cuba

My apartment in Havana is on a rooftop overlooking the sea, which sounds grand and penthousey, but it’s not – it’s the former caretaker’s hut. It also sits above my parents-in-law’s place, which offers challenges, but does mean that most days I wander down for lunch. When I first moved in, I didn’t speak Spanish