Spectator Life

Spectator Life

An intelligent mix of culture, style, travel, food and property, as well as where to go and what to see.

How a Somerset farm became a hub for modern art

I’m standing in a farmyard in Somerset, drinking in the clear country air, soaking up the summer sunshine and marvelling at the lovely view. However this view is rather different from the sort of thing you tend to see on most farms. I’m here to see some modern art, stuff my face and enjoy a stroll round the stunning gardens. Welcome to Durslade Farm, the grooviest art gallery in the West Country, and one of my favourite days out. Durslade is the brainchild of Swiss couple Iwan and Manuela Wirth. Together with Manuela’s mother, leading art collector Ursula Hauser, they run one of the world’s hippest galleries, Hauser & Wirth. Hauser & Wirth have premises all around the world, in swanky locations like Monaco, St Moritz, Zurich, Hong Kong, New York and LA.

Forget Cornwall — England’s sunniest county is made for staycationers

If the prospect of keeping an eye on transport secretary Grant Shapps’s Twitter feed doesn’t fill you with much joy, there’s only one option for a holiday this year: a staycation. So where is the best place in Britain to find good weather? Of course, no holiday in the UK can be guaranteed to be rain free, but there is one part of the country where you are more likely than elsewhere to find sunshine. Devon? Cornwall? The answer may surprise you. Sussex is, in fact, the sunniest county in the United Kingdom, according to Met Office records. Over the last 29 years, the western part of the county has averaged 1902 hours of sunshine a year. Not to be outdone, Eastbourne and Hastings, in the east of the county, hold the record for the sunniest month ever recorded: 383.

The best Croatian getaways to book now

Croatia is officially on the green list! With speedy, direct flights to Dubrovnik (running under three hours from many UK destinations), plus plenty of sought-after sunshine, this jewel of the Adriatic just became the hottest destination to visit this summer. Here's our guide to the top places to stay… Lopud 1483 The little-known island of Lopud may seem off-the-beaten track, but it’s actually easily within reach of Dubrovnik. With only around 200 residents, you won’t have crowds to worry about on this sandy isle, but if it’s ultimate privacy you’re after, there’s Lopud 1483, a centuries-old Franciscan monastery that’s now an art-filled, high-design hideaway.

How to try stately home glamping

We are in the midst of a camping boom. Faced with travel restrictions and uncertainties around jetting off into the sun, taking your family out for a few nights under canvas is an increasingly attractive prospect, and the wealth and depth of the British landscape lends itself well to a stay under the stars.  Of course, there are traditional camping setups aplenty in this country, many of which are established businesses that keep people coming back time and time again. But a new brand of campsite is emerging across the UK - pop-up sites opening to make the most of the summer break have established themselves up and down the land, and many offer access to the grounds of stately homes normally closed off to the public.

Scenic walks to try this summer

We may be a small nation geographically, but what we lack in size we more than make up for in diversity and range of landscape to explore. With restrictions on travel meaning the UK is our best bet now when it comes to getting away, why not try some of Britain’s most stunning accessible walks? It’s great to see so many people donning their walking boots and getting out through the pandemic, and I hope that some of the list below might give you some inspiration to head to the hills this summer. The Lizard, Cornwall Jutting out to the south of the famous coastal peninsula is The Lizard, a wild and windy mix of rugged coastal seascapes and unspoilt moorland.

A far-flung getaway to the Faroe Islands

Before its elevation to the undeniably slim Green List, the isolated windswept, wave-lashed archipelago of volcanic rock in the North Atlantic Ocean known as the Faroe Islands was not on many people’s radars. With direct flights from the UK recommencing on July 1, no doubt its popularity will surge in the coming months. Even before Covid, tourism had doubled within five years and it was increasingly being dubbed ‘the new Iceland’. Centred between Scotland, Norway and Iceland, this dramatic and windswept territory is not to all tastes. It rains here for 300 days a year and winds are so fierce and common that virtually no trees grow.

The British honeymoon spots to book this summer

While weddings have been given the green light to go ahead with (some) degree of normality, overseas holidays have not. This means that soon-to-be newlyweds dreaming of jetting away somewhere exotic after the ceremony will have to make alternative plans. Fortunately there are plenty of very romantic honeymoon spots dotted around the UK. Here's our pick of the best. Isle of Eriska, West Argyll A private 350-acre island, Eriska was for centuries only accessible at low tide, via ford, or by boat. Thankfully there is now a bridge so that visitors to the five-star Eriska Hotel can schlep over with their bags and golf clubs.

A non-clubber’s guide to Ibiza

When my wife suggested a holiday in Ibiza, I thought she must be bonkers. I’d always hated clubbing, and now we had a baby and a toddler in tow. Shows how much I know. We went, we had a great time and the only clubbers we encountered were in the kids’ club at our hotel. That was 17 years ago, I’ve been back several times since then, and now the Balearics are on the green list we can’t wait to return. Our children are almost grown up now, far too cool to tag along, but it’ll be an ideal break for the two of us. I bet you’d love it too.

The dos and don’ts of flying by private jet

The private aviation industry is soaring at the moment with increased bookings and offerings in the aftermath of Covid, as well as an influx of new pay-per-seat, on-demand private jet services arriving on the market. Whether you’re flying private for the first time or the fiftieth time this summer, or simply curious as to how it's done, good manners are always the ticket. So what's the secret to passing yourself off as a seasoned pro? Seating 'Always respect the owner,' says Marine Eugène, European Managing Director of Flexjet.

The hottest new Balearic hotels to try this summer

Following the recent announcement of Britain's extended green list, many UK travellers will be jetting off for the only part of Spain to make the cut: the Balearic Islands. A number of laidback luxury hotels and locally inspired resorts are making their debut across the Balearics just as travellers return. These are the brand-new properties providing beachfront, mountain-backed and garden-enclosed retreats across Ibiza, Mallorca, Formentera and Menorca. Six Senses Ibiza Six Senses is making its entry to the Balearics this summer with the debut of Six Senses Ibiza. Set over 20 acres on the northern tip of the island, the village-like retreat combines uninterrupted sea views and direct access to Cala Xarraca bay with sustainable luxury that takes cues from authentic island life.

Malta: why the Queen’s cherished island is worth a visit

The Queen has never been one for a beach holiday, but as a young woman she loved spending time on the sun-dappled island of Malta. The then-Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip stayed on the island regularly just after the Second World War, the newly weds residing at the Villa Guardamangia from 1949 to 1951. They enjoyed being near the sea, visiting the racetrack and being out of the public eye. The Queen is even said to have visited a hairdresser for the first time there. Viewers of The Crown will be familiar with this period, which the Queen and Prince Philip reportedly described as one of the happiest times in their lives.

The house mafia: the scandal of new builds

29 min listen

This week…Why should the first time buyer be so scared of new builds? (00:36) Plus… will the catholic church come to the defence of the word mother? (09:33) And finally… Why does it take so long to understand Japanese culture, even for the Japanese? (18:50)With John Myers founder of YIMBY, Vickey Spratt housing correspondent of the I newspaper and author of the up coming book Tenants, Spectator Columnist Mary Wakefield, theologian Theo Hobson, former editor of The Tablet and author of Martyrdom: Why Martyrs Still Matter Catherine Pepinster, Professor Philip Patrick and comedian Ollie Horn (@olliehorntweets).Presented by Lara Prendergast.Produced by Cindy Yu, Natasha Feroze and Sam Russell.

Is the green list enough to save tourism?

Will there be any new countries on the ‘green list’ when the latest revisions are announced tomorrow? Last time around there was expected to be some kind of relaxation – yet no countries were added to the green list. Instead, Portugal was removed and several countries were added to the red list. However, media minister John Whittingdale certainly seemed to hold hope when interviewed on the Today programme this morning, saying “hopefully it will be possible to increase that number [of countries]”. It is hard to escape the conclusion that the government will face serious difficulties if it does not allow some relaxation. The travel industry is getting restive and some bodies are holding a day of action in London today.

British vineyards that make you feel like you’re abroad

As a sommelier who has worked for Copenhagen’s Noma and Per Se in New York and set up the two Michelin-starred restaurant Kitchen Table in 2012, I'm more than a little discerning when it comes to wine. Britain may be a relative newcomer  to wine making but its offerings are gaining more attention from oenophiles as time goes on, especially in the field of sparkling wine. And the good news is you can now stay at many of Britain's vineyards and try out the wines for yourself. Here are five to try: The Bathing House at Sharpham Wine Estate A romantic self-catering cottage straight out of the scenery in movies is surrounded by rows of vines that lead down to the waters of the River Dart in Devon.

The sumptuous Suffolk estate that transports you to Tuscany

Ah Italia! Land of gelato, Vespas and frescoes – I’ve pined for the place so many times over the last year that it’s difficult to know which I love more: Italy itself or the idea of Italy.  The joy of travel is always sparked in part by imagination: the anticipation of a place before you arrive; the memory of it once you leave. And it's not without reason that we love to recreate the places we admire back home. The Chinese have even gone so far as to enshrine their nostalgia for England through Shanghai’s mock English suburb Thames Town. It’s a riot of British stereotypes – from phone boxes to village greens.

Take the plunge: sublime swimming pools to discover this summer

Love it or loath it, London’s 10-storey-high ‘sky’ pool, suspended 114m above the Nine Elms made a splash this month. Images of swimmers dipping their toes in the 25m water-filled bridge between two blocks of luxury flats ignited a social media furore; would-be swimmers were disappointed to discover the residents-only rule, and equally furious that developers had slammed a ban on just who in the building could accessing the slice of sky-high aquamarine heaven. But there’s no need to get your speedos in a twist over the Nine Elms pool: Britain is brimming with unusual swimming spots that don’t require the keys to a multi-million-pound pad.

Given up on the Green List? Quick country getaways to book now

The fickle British weather has turned back in our favour – which means it is the season for the spontaneous mini break. However countryside hotels and campsites have been booking up fast. Make hay while the sun shines and book one of these boutique options for a countryside getaway, while spaces are still available. Ellenborough Park Hotel, Gloucestershire This country castle, which dates back to the Tudor era, has the honeyed yellow stone and crenellated turrets you’d expect of a Cotswold estate. Now a five-star hotel and spa, once you tire of exploring the 90-acre grounds, you can relax in the jacuzzi, sauna or heated outdoor pool. A half spa day costs £80.

Celebrate the best of Europe this summer

Everyone needs a holiday this year – and what could be more enjoyable than sunshine, alfresco adventures and delicious Tuscan cuisine in the company of friends and family? The birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Florence is a city to wander in wonder and the perfect destination to celebrate newfound freedoms and grand reunions. Hotel Savoy, a Rocco Forte Hotel, is located on the magnificent Piazza della Repubblica, mere moments from the majesty of the Duomo, and is a luxurious base from which to explore. This year will be a special summer in Florence for many reasons; in particular, it is the 700th anniversary of the death of Dante Alighieri, author of The Divine Comedy and one of the most influential figures in both Italian and world literature.

Missing the city? Chic hotels for a London mini break

Fluffy, cloud-like beds. Pristine, white robes. Rooms service. Hotels are open again for leisure stays, and we couldn’t be happier. For those in dire need of a night away, London has a whole slew of new picks. From a boutique bolthole tucked off Portobello Road in Notting Hill with only a handful of rooms to a quirky new Mayfair hotspot comprised of 15 adjoining townhouses, these are the best new London hotels for some rest and relaxation on your first big night out of the house. Nobu Hotel London Portman Square, Marylebone Nobu is no stranger to London.

How to try Cornwall’s new 150-mile cycle route

With many people having taken up cycling during lockdown, the West Kernow Way is bound to prove popular this summer. A new initiative from Cycling UK, it’s one that I'm surprised hasn’t come sooner. This part of the world is awash with bridleways, cycle-able terrain and quiet backcountry roads suited to bikes. It’s also part of the world best explored slowly - drive past this landscape without stopping at the ruins, the pubs and the hamlets and you’re missing a fundamental part of what makes this area of Cornwall special. It’s set to be a popular route, intended to be covered over four days. So what are the highlights and where should you start?

Portugal’s secret sanctuaries: why it pays to roam far

My trek along the entire length of Portugal began on a small boat with Captain Juan standing beside the outboard. Accompanied by five other rucksack-laden pilgrims who I met during an extended Camino de Santiago pilgrimage to escape UK lockdowns, we were crossing the Minho River that serves as the border between Spain and Portugal’s northern edge. It was all rather dramatic and felt a bit like a Special Forces’ insertion, additional frisson coming from uncertainty over whether the border was actually open. It didn’t seem the issue was much on the mind of Captain Juan either way. The following 560-plus kilometres of hiking due south brought ancient towers, castles, cathedrals and defunct windmills straight out of Miguel de Cervantes’ Don Quixote.

Whodunnit? The lab leak theory is looking increasingly plausible

38 min listen

We’re still none the wiser about the origins of coronavirus, but has the lab leak theory just got more credible (00:55) Also on the podcast: are English tourists welcome in Scotland (15:25)? And is being rude the secret to success?With author Matt Ridley, virologist Dr Dennis Carroll, deputy political editor Katy Balls, hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray, journalists Harry Mount and Rebecca Reid.Presented by William Moore.Produced by Cindy Yu, Max Jeffery and Sam Russell.

Travel podcasts to fuel your wanderlust

After a miserable year for would-be globetrotters, international travel is finally returning - albeit slowly - with the unveiling of the (rather short) green list. What better time, then, to stoke up your wanderlust by listening to one of these excellent travel podcasts: The Trip Former TIME foreign editor Nathan Thornburgh has a pretty cushy gig: flying across the world to imbibe the local toast with what he succinctly describes as ‘exceptional people’. Whether it’s sipping mezcal with former cartel fixers in Tijuana or dishing the dirt with corruption-busters in Kensington (over knock-off Russian vodka), The Trip is the perfect podcast for the raffish and adventurous.

Where to beat the crowds in Portugal

Following the news that Portugal, including Madeira and the Azores, has a place on the UK’s green list, many of us are writing off other destinations and eyeing up its travel potential for the first time. There's more to Portugal than the Algarve: whether you’re in search of vines, hiking trails or secluded shores, it's possible to pull off an extremely varied break here.  The Coast As popular as Portugal is for its beaches, its long Atlantic coastline and wealth of islands means there’s plenty of coastal seclusion to be found. The Serra da Arrábida Natural Park near Lisbon covers more than 100 square kilometres and is the setting for several sandy stretches and smaller coves including Praia de Galapinhos.

Into the wild: hidden campsites to explore this summer

We all know it’s going to be another bumper year for the UK’s tourism sector. With confidence in international travel still not yet fully in-place, and staycation options booked out, camping is a fantastic alternative, giving you the flexibility to follow the weather and families the ability to meet again in a socially distant way with the backdrop of some of the UK’s most stunning landscapes. We’ve put together this list of some of the best campsites in the UK to book this summer, with a focus on wild spaces and access to coast paths and hill walks. Here are eight recommendations for the best campsites to book this summer.

Why Iceland is the ideal post-Covid getaway

As restrictions begin to ease and the possibility of travel grows increasingly closer, Iceland stands out as one of the best-bet 'green light' countries with low case numbers, a solid vaccination programme, and flexible entry requirements. It also happens that summer is one of the best times to visit the country with 24 hours of daylight in some areas, not to mention warmer and drier weather. The flight from London to Reykjavik takes just over three hours, making it a great option for a long weekend. Here are some ideas for how to spend your time in the naturally socially distanced land of fire and ice.

Secret sea air: where to beat the crowds this summer

With foreign travel still a tricky prospect, it looks like being a bumper summer for the British seaside. And yet that means the most popular places are bound to get very busy indeed. To avoid the queues and traffic jams, I’ll be revisiting some of Britain’s less familiar seaside towns. Of course, these places are very familiar to folk who are lucky enough to live nearby, but they don’t attract the bumper crowds you get in big resorts like Blackpool or Skegness. Nor are they terribly fashionable, like Padstow or St Ives. Some of them are a bit offbeat, but they’re all places where I’ve had great days out. You’re bound to have your own favourites, but if you fancy trying somewhere new this summer, here’s my personal top ten.

How to have an Australian weekend in London

The news that Australia’s borders could remain closed until 2024 will be a blow to anyone hoping for a trip down under after lockdown. If you can’t wait that long (and fingers crossed you won’t have to) here’s our guide to having an Australian themed weekend here in London. Where to eatBrunch at Daisy Green Though London’s Aussie population has shrunk in recent years, the standard of Antipodean cuisine has been very much on the rise - not that we’re alleging any correlation there, of course. Leading the charge has been Daisy Green, a collection of Australian-run restaurants managing to gain a foothold in London’s already crowded brunch market with their inspired take on Melbourne and Sydney cafe culture.

Five British hotels that have featured in films

The thought of staying in a hotel remains a distant memory for many. To remember how it’s done, and for inspiration of where stay, look no further than your favourite films, and the real-life hotels they feature. The Headland Hotel in Cornwall The Headland Hotel in Newquay was renamed ‘Hotel Excelsior’ for the film ‘The Witches’, the adaptation of Roald Dahl’s classic book. Luke and his aunt Helga stay at the beachside hotel for the summer on doctor’s orders for Helga’s fluctuating diabetes. Here they encounter a convention of witches who are staying under the guise of the ‘Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children.’ In fact, they plot the opposite.