Is Tainan the world’s most dangerous city?
In a country full of brilliant food, the Garden Night Market in sultry Tainan, southwest Taiwan, is still a standout: a cheerful riot of steam, umami, deep-fried tofu and loud, vivacious chatter. Families drift past in loose formation, grandparents hefting toddlers with fruit ices, flirting teenagers orbiting bubble-tea stalls, couples sharing hot skewers of squid, pork and chicken gizzards. Almost everyone plays lurid and inexplicable games involving teddy bears and claw machines. I eat sublime oyster omelettes slick with sweet chili pepper sauce, then hot soup dumplings that collapse into scalding, savory bliss. Someone presses popcorn chicken into my hand. It is dangerously moreish. The next morning, Tainan feels sun-blessed and unhurried.
