Tony Laithwaite loves wine. Of course he does. As the owner of wineries and vineyards around the world, and as the force behind Direct Wines, the Sunday Times Wine Club and Laithwaites Wine, he’s bound to.
What I mean is he actually loves the wine in his glass, and that after almost 60 years in the trade (gaining a CBE for his trouble) he still smiles with unabashed delight as he uncorks a bottle of something tasty.
Having bumped into Tony at a recent dinner, I challenged him to join me at The Spectator with as many favourite bottles as he could muster in order to conjure up a selection worthy of you, dear reader.
He more than met the challenge. I then failed hopelessly in picking six from his long list and ended up choosing ten. Lucky you!
The 2025 Alta Tierra Sauvignon Blanc Gran Reserva (1) is from the Elqui Valley, Chile, near the Atacama Desert, a blessed spot to grow grapes, thanks to the high altitude, intense sun and Andes snowmelt. I loved its hints of elderflower, gooseberry and cut grass and its sheer intensity and concentration. £14 down from £16.
They don’t grow much Roussanne or Marsanne in Chile, so Rhône-inspired 2024 LFE 360 Series Roussanne Marsanne (2) from the Colchagua Valley is a delightful rarity. I lapped up the wine’s peachy, peary, honeyed creaminess. £16 down from £19.
The 2025 Seifried Gewürztraminer (3) from Nelson, NZ, is gorgeous. I found papaya in it and mango, then lychee and rose petals. Tony just smiled. It’s fresh, lively and spicy and, despite all the exotic fruit, finishes dry to off-dry. £16 down from £20.
2025 Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling (4), from one of NZ’s most celebrated estates, is as sophisticated a Riesling as you’ll find, crisp, pure, focused and completely bone dry. A hearty second glass confirmed my findings. £14 down from £17.
The 2024 Loubissou Organic Rosé (5) is the palest of pink rosés from a tiny cooperative in the Languedoc rather than, as I expected, Provence. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault lifted by a touch of (white) Clairette, it’s an ideal 11 a.m. summer sharpener. £17 down from £20.
The 2024 Winzer Krems Classic Blauer Zweigelt (6) is a perfect example of Austria’s most-planted red grape. From the banks of the Danube, it’s fresh, juicy and easy-going, full of raspberry/strawberry fruit and a touch of spice. £13 down from £15.
The 2021 Altos R. Crianza Rioja (7) from half French/half Spanish winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua, is classic Rioja, all mellow, mature dark cherry fruit with sweetness and savouriness combined. £17 down from £19.
The 2023 Grand Vin de l’Epervier (8) might only be a vin de table, thanks to its component Grenache, Syrah and Carignan being drawn from across Languedoc’s various AOCs, but its quality is far higher. It’s a beauty, with silky smooth fruit, richness and spice. This is its last ever vintage so snap it up while you can. £17 down from £20.
The 2022 Château La Clarière (9), from Castillon, is where it all began for Mr L. He worked here as a teenager and now owns the estate, producing extremely genial Merlot-based, Saint Emilion-worthy reds of style, structure and elegance. £23 down from £30.
Finally, the Windsor Great Park English Sparkling Brut (10), a traditional method fizz from a vineyard planted by Tony at the suggestion of the park’s then ranger, Prince Philip. A typical blend of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, it’s lightly honeyed yet dry, with hints of crisp apple and a stream of fine bubbles. £34 down from £44.
Mixed Case A (11) contains one bottle each of wines 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8 and Mixed Case B (12) contains two each. The Kiwi Case (13) contains three bottles each of wines 3 and 4. Wine 10 is offered in boxes of three. Delivery, as ever, is free.
Order online today or download as order form.
Tony Laithwaite and Jonathan Ray would love you to join them for an informal wine tasting and discussion in the Spectator garden on Monday 7 September. For more details, go to www.spectator.com/tastings
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