Life

Despite its squelchy origins, the brogue has become a classic fall footwear staple

Few shoes have traveled as far as the brogue. Its origins lie in the boggy countrysides of Scotland and Ireland, where its signature rows of tiny perforations (called broguing) were said to help drain water from sodden leather. That practical purpose disappeared long ago, but the detailing remained. Today, while its close relative, the plain Oxford, belongs in the office, a brogue looks as though it has loosened its tie and gone somewhere nice for lunch. It comes into its own at this time of year, too. As wardrobes move away from cotton towards flannel, corduroy, and heavier wool, the brogue simply looks right. For a shoe that has been around for well over a century, it still leaves shoemakers a surprising amount of room to maneuver.

Montblanc really sank its teeth into this suitably gothic homage to one of horror’s literary greats

Autumn is a season tinged with shades of the supernatural – when nights lengthen, imagination unfurls its inky wings, and All Hallows’ Eve sees the veil between the realms of fact and folklore become gossamer-thin. It’s a season for tales best told in the dark. What better time, then, for luxury pen maker Montblanc to honor an innovator of the horror genre with its Writers Edition Homage to Bram Stoker collection: a tribute to the author who gave us an indelible archetype of the vampire legend with his gothic masterpiece, Dracula.

Playwright Lindsey Ferrentino’s visceral writing finds the ordinary in extraordinary people

Working with Kim Kardashian wasn’t on Lindsey Ferrentino’s “dance card,” the playwright opined in a recent social media post. And it’s true, at first glance the collaboration might jar. But the pair have found common ground on the subject of prison reform, leading Kardashian to come onboard and produce Ferrentino’s latest Broadway production, The Fear of 13, which tells the true story of an American man who spent 22 years on death row for a murder he did not commit. Raised in South Florida, Ferrentino is the daughter of a former X-ray technician father who made the unusual transition to stand-up comedy and magic shows, at one stage touring alongside Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young. At 17, she chose the age-old migration path, landing in New York to pursue acting.

Handmade leather bags from one of Birmingham’s last remaining gunmakers

Most people know Birmingham in the UK as the soot-blackened backdrop to period crime drama Peaky Blinders – or the birthplace of leather-clad rockers Black Sabbath. But two centuries ago, Birmingham was known as “the workshop of the world” or “the city of a thousand trades,” thanks to thousands of small workshops specializing in all manner of handmade goods – from guns and jewelry to buttons and pens. Although many of these workshops have since been swallowed into the soot, a handful have survived, and one of the city’s few remaining gunmakers is Westley Richards. William Westley Richards opened his first shop in 1812, overlooking what is now the Bullring Shopping Centre in the center of Birmingham.

With Thom Sweeney’s Madison Avenue opening, America’s crush on British tailoring has become a full-blown love affair

Purveyors of premium menswear don’t come more British than Thom Sweeney. The house’s roster of celebrity clients includes Daniel Craig, Tom Hardy, and Davids Gandy (of D&G ad fame) and Beckham. Walk into its London flagship – a four-story townhouse on Mayfair’s Old Burlington Street – and you’re likely to hear The Rolling Stones or Britpop blasting through the speakers. Even the house cut – high armhole, slim sleeve, silhouette softened a little – is characteristically British. Thom Sweeney’s ‘elevated and grand’ Madison Avenue interior [Matteo Verzini] So it’s perhaps inevitable that America has embraced Thom Sweeney with such gusto.

National Geographic’s new museum, supported by Rolex, is an immersive tribute to the history and pursuit of exploration

“To date, I’ve made 75 deep submersible dives, including 33 to the Titanic,” filmmaker James Cameron announced at the inauguration of the new National Geographic Museum of Exploration in Washington, DC earlier this year. Only feet away from the Hollywood director lay a scale replica of the prow of the ill-fated ship, one of the exhibits at the museum, authentically covered in what look like assorted organisms of the deep. “In 2001, I started work with a new sub that could go to the deepest place in the world’s ocean, and I worked with this polymath engineer in Australia [called] Ron Allum,” Cameron explained. “It took us seven years to build the Deepsea Challenger, and that expedition would not have been possible without Rolex acting on its own spirit of exploration.

AI is turning the world into slop

It seems AI is not just making everyone sound the same, but now everything must look the same too. I haven’t been able to walk into a pub, cafe or shop this summer without noticing the uncanny, slightly unreal sheen of an AI-generated poster. From caricatured cartoon children on a nursery advertisement to an abnormally glistening burger on a food menu, every billboard, flyer and sign now seems to have been regurgitated from the same ChatGPT printing press. We are hurtling ever closer to a flattened future in which everything converges toward the average, the mediocre, the visual mean There are many telltale signs that a sign is generic AI-slop.

ai slop

Maine character syndrome

When I arrive at the Longfellow Hotel in Portland, Maine, the weather is as Henry Wadsworth Longfellow described it: “Into each life some rain must fall/ Some days must be dark and dreary.” In his childhood home, I stand in the “rainy day” room, where Longfellow is believed to have written those words in 1841. A portrait of his sister Anne hangs on the wall. She was a caring soul, who helped hold family life together while her brother became a celebrated poet. His portable writing desk is on display, complete with white quill. The first poem he published, aged 13, was written in this house. Six years later, he sailed to Europe. His early travel sketches appeared in the New England Magazine, while his observations of European life were brought together in Outre-Mer and Hyperion.

Brown furniture isn’t dead

Throw out your grandfather clocks, the naysayers said, and banish your commodes to the scrapheap and junkshop. Brown furniture – invented in the Georgian and Regency eras and popularized for the mass market in the Victorian period – has been decreed by those tastemakers in the know to be as dead as Jacob Marley – a man who undoubtedly would have cherished those heavy mahogany bed frames and cabinets that were synonymous with his age – and showing even fewer signs of returning, even in spectral form.   The reasons for the apparent demise of brown furniture are less to do with a rejection of sturdy, well-built items that were once the pride and joy of any household and more because we are living smaller lives, in all senses.

brown furniture

Americans can’t write funny novels

If I recommended you an American novel called Stoner, what would you think? You’d probably assume it was some hallucinogen-inspired rubbish from the 1960s by someone who once met Allen Ginsberg. You wouldn’t think it was a plangent, devastating story about the failed life of an English literature academic. That’s because, if a campus novel like this were British, it would have been written by Kingsley Amis, Howard Jacobson or Evelyn Waugh. It would never have had such a terrible title and would also be comic rather than achingly sad. That’s the difference between British and American novels: American novels aren’t funny.

Why I love the NFL

The NFL season kicks off again today with the Seattle Seahawks hosting the New England Patriots in a Super Bowl rematch. It got me thinking about the growing popularity of the sport in my country, the United Kingdom. I got into the NFL at a time when my “soccer” team, Queens Park Rangers, were especially terrible. It was around 2022. The 16-hour round trips to away games in the less salubrious parts of the UK had begun to wear on me. After yet another 1-0 defeat on a cold rainy night in Stoke I realised I needed an escape. The balls-to-the-wall action of the NFL was exactly the thing my life was missing.  I decided to support the Seahawks.

How to eat your way through Bourdain’s New York

To experience the Big Apple properly, you don’t just take a bite: you take a carbohydrate-laced mouthful. Think smoked salmon bagels thick with cream cheese or $2 pizza slices dripping with grease. Think warm, salted pretzels, or frankfurters from a street kiosk, or steaks as big as the genetically modified cows from whence they came. Even so, for the full I <3 NYC gastronomic voyage, there’s only one restaurateur whose bagel-crumb trail is worth following: Anthony Bourdain, of course. The “bad boy” Big Apple he represented is a city long devoured and spat out Why, eight years after his death, are we still feasting on our obsession with “Tony” (as last month’s biopic would have us call him)?

Lust can’t be lectured

A lovely, intelligent female acquaintance, roughly my own age, keeps telling me to grow up and date women roughly my own age. And she has a point. If I dated women of my cohort, we could discuss the fall of the Berlin Wall, the genius of the first R.E.M. album, and agree that in those days it was easier to get off a sofa. But life, as always, isn’t simple. As I say to my female friend: "I wish I could. But my loins, when they are functional, have different ideas." The awkward truth is that young, slender, fair-skinned women remain an erotic ideal And I really do wish I fancied women my age. It's a seller's market for sane and solvent men with their own hair, or so I am told.

The price of being right

As a young man, G.K. Chesterton entered a literary contest, the given topic of which was, “What’s wrong with the world?” His entry was exactly two words long: “I am.” I don’t recall whether he won or not. Certainly he wouldn’t do so today, when every educated person appears to believe that he is what’s right with the world, while anyone who disagrees with him is not only wrong, but a bad person as well. There is something grimly comical about the contemporary humorless quest for social and political perfection by people who are not only themselves manifestly imperfect but very often bad in proportion to the intensity of that quest, though almost always without seeming to know it.

How to maintain the equestrian aesthetic

“We know what art is! It’s paintings of horses,” Alec Baldwin’s Jack Donaghy says from his elegant top-floor office in 30 Rock. George Stubbs’s masterpiece “Whistlejacket”;  “Napoleon Crossing the Alps” on his rearing warhorse Marengo, by Jacques-Louis David; English hunt scenes. Horses are a quintessential subject in European, and especially English, art. They evoke palatial country estates passed down over the centuries and the breeches, boots and hunt colors of the men who ride for sport and leisure. Yet the equestrian aesthetic is now synonymous with Ralph Lauren, who deconstructed the WASPish polo style into something modern and American, only to have his own discerning innovations copied to an endless, commercial degree.

New Yorkers don’t get DC

I was in New York all summer, making a big fuss about DC to all those sophisticated cosmopolitans. They think it’s boring. They assume it’s full of squares and policy nerds and they’re right, but that characterization doesn’t do the capital justice. It’s my job as a Washington ambassador to accurately portray the city to the snobbish coastal elites, even to sex it up a bit (though it really doesn’t need my help in this respect). Regardless, it’s a job I take seriously. The obvious hook is, of course, espionage. Espionage is chock-full of charge and my choice motifs are all borrowed from the weighty catalogs of 007 and Richard Nixon’s Watergate scandal – wiretapping, martinis, guns, honeypots.

Wendell Berry’s homecoming

Wendell Berry, who died Monday aged 92, was a man who loved the soil and the soul. Writing from Kentucky, where his family has lived and farmed for generations, Berry built up, over more than sixty years, a corpus of fiction, non-fiction and poetry – all genres in which he distinguished himself – which, when taken as whole, reveals a profound and coherent philosophy of the earth and how it relates to human community.  Unfortunately, the average person probably doesn’t know who Berry is. Even those who have heard of him might only know his incendiary 1987 Harper’s essay “Why I Am Not Going to Buy a Computer” or his watershed 1977 takedown of maximalist agricultural practices, The Unsettling of America.

wendell berry

Why Trump can’t control the price of a burger

Good news, burger lovers. Help is on the way. Last month, Donald Trump announced on Truth Social that he has “concluded a deal to substantially lower the price of ground beef.” Well, it’s about time. As someone who covers the barbecue beat, I’ve been keeping a close eye on beef prices the past few years, especially brisket. They’ve kept going up. According to the US Bureau of Labor Statistics, the average price of ground beef nationwide has risen 24 percent, from $5.55 per pound in January 2025 to $6.89 this summer.  Fortunately, that’s about to change – and just in time for football tailgating season.

Real men don’t look like Clavicular

One of my favorite one-I-made-earlier aphorisms is “Men are the sum of their parts; women are some of their parts.” But now I’m wondering if it’s a bit out of date. When I thought it up, women were the only ones who bothered with “tweakments” and cosmetic surgery and generally turning themselves into living dolls, hoping to hook what in the common parlance is known as “a live one.” But now, with transplants for receding hairlines and male film stars no longer looking like their passport photos, I don’t think this is true anymore. Becoming a “lad” once meant swerving Sports Day, drinking beer and generally letting oneself go Where there is still a gap in male and female attitudes to looks is in dieting.