Time can hang heavy in Spectator Towers on the afternoon of press day. It doesn’t hang heavy for long – there are the regular podcasts, daily emails and the next issue to ponder – but for an hour or so after the magazine has been put to bed, time can hang heavy.
This being a house of journalistic bent, when time hangs heavy so thoughts wander, not so much to when the next scoop might appear but rather the next refreshing glass.
So it was on Wednesday last week. I’d bagged myself the Apollo conference room in which to taste some truly fine burgundies courtesy of FromVineyardsDirect and had barely opened the first bottle before in burst editorial stardust in the form of Freddy Gray, Rupert Hawksley, Will Moore and Lara Prendergast, all parched and gasping. ‘We heard a cork pop and thought you might need some help,’ said Freddy, eyes shining at the sight of so many tasty bottles. I told them they could have as much vino as they could ship in return for their thoughts and comments. Rupert offered to jot them down, and so on we cracked. Our favourite six are here below.
The 2024 Alain Chavy, Bourgogne Blanc (1) had us all purring. ‘Love that!’ exclaimed Rupert. ‘Oh yes!’ sighed Lara. ‘What’s the alcohol?’ asked Freddy, worried that it wasn’t quite high enough. A perennial favourite at FVD, this wine is one of the best vintages yet from the great Alain Chavy: 100 per cent Chardonnay from vineyards around Puligny-Montrachet, it’s vinified partly in oak, partly in stainless steel and is soft and supple with juicy ripe pears, citrus and a long dry, slightly creamy finish. £19.95 down from £23.95.
Rupert pondered his second glass before professing it to be ‘Nuits-Saint-Gorgeous’
The 2024 Domaine Gonon Pouilly Fuissé, Vieilles Vignes (2) made everyone smile. ‘I prefer that,’ said Rupert. ‘I prefer them both,’ said Freddy confusingly. ‘What fabulous fruit,’ said Will. From Pierre and Jean Gonon, fifth-generation winemaking brothers, it’s truly classy, with generous honeyed fresh and dried fruit, a touch of both citrus and vanilla and a caressingly long finish. £21.95 down from £23.95.
The 2024 Claudie Jobard, Rully ‘Montagne La Folie’ (3) was also a great hit. ‘Buttery,’ said Lara, happily. ‘Buttery and nutty,’ said Will, ditto. ‘I love that!’ said Freddy. ‘I’ll never drink Barefoot again,’ sighed Rupert. Made with organically farmed, low yielding, old vine fruit fermented in oak, it’s a glorious wine with rich peach/baked apple fruit and that beautifully textured, yep, buttery finish. £26.95 down from £28.95.
We moved on to the reds in some disarray. The boys digressed, eulogising the delights of southern French vin de table, Rupert broke his pen and, with the wines in the wrong order, the scoring went a bit wonky.
I regained control of the room, and, after a restart, we moved onto the 2018 Domaine Gérard Julien et Fils Aloxe Corton ‘Les Valozières’ (4). Lara loved its soft, smooth texture and Rupert delighted in ‘berries on the nose’ (and his skill in picking up ‘winespeak’ so swiftly). A Pinot Noir of immense style, it is complexity incarnate with red and black cherries, strawberries, chocolate, green pepper and even beef bouillon in the mix. We all loved it. £36.95 down from £39.95.
The 2019 Armand Heitz Beaune premier Cru ‘Les Avaux’ (5) is fabulous. Our panel’s comments ranged from ‘I really like that’ to ‘I really love that’, ‘Wow!’ and ‘That’s quality!’ Sourced by the eccentric, nature-respecting genius Armand Heitz entirely from organic, premier cru vineyards west of Beaune, it’s classically structured with soft, mellow, juicy hedgerow fruit, rose petals, spice and a refreshing acidity. £47.50 down from £52.95.
Finally, the 2017 Domaine Alain Michelot Nuits-Saint-Georges premier Cru Chaignots (6) from fourth-generation Elodie Michelot, daughter of fabled Alain. Rupert declared it ‘full-bodied, almost pillowy’, Will reckoned it ‘agricultural, but in a good way’ and Lara loved its intensity. It certainly has great concentration of blackberry fruit and, with just a touch of new oak, a whisper of vanilla along with more leathery, truffly notes. Rupert pondered his second glass before professing it to be ‘Nuits-Saint-Gorgeous’. £49.50 down from £54.95.
The first mixed case (7) contains four bottles of each white, while the second mixed case (8) is a half-dozen and contains two bottles of each red. Delivery, as ever, is free.
To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.com/tastings.
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