Any so-called ‘working lunch’ with Chloe Ferrari, commander-in-chief of the Spectator Club, and Laura Taylor, director of Private Cellar, needs to be approached with caution. It’s not that we don’t get any work done – remarkably, we do – but these guys know their wines (Laura is nearly a Master of Wine and Chloe is principal of the Spectator Wine School) and their enquiring thirsts know no bounds. Only last week in Brighton, after lunch at Wild Flor and post-prandials in Alphabet, Patio and, I think, the Plotting Parlour, it went a bit awry. Somehow I found myself in Haywards Heath in the dark having thought I was simply walking home to my crib in Skid Row-on-Sea. I genuinely can’t remember how or why.
Anyway, before said diversion, we unanimously agreed on the delectability of the following Private Cellar wines. I know them all so well, having visited each of the estates with the Spectator Wine Club over recent months, and I just wanted to share the joy.
The 2025 Mehofer Grüner Veltliner (1) from the village of Neudegg, about an hour north-west of Vienna, is so lovely – fresh, lively, crisp and truly food-friendly. Our visit here is the highlight of our Austrian tour. Everyone falls in love not only with the organic, sustainably farmed/produced wines, but also with the Mehofer family, winzers here since 1709. £13.20 down from £14.50.
We unanimously agreed on the delectability of these Private Cellar wines
The 2024 Valserrano Rioja Blanco (2) from Bodegas de la Marquesa in Rioja Alavesa is another treat. Made from old vine Viura fermented first in steel and then in oak, it has both freshness and depth, with touches of citrus, cream and spice. It’s akin to a decent white burgundy but at half the price. £15.50 down from £16.75.
A blend of 95 per cent Tempranillo and 5 per cent Mazuelo, aged in French and American oak, the 2021 Valserrano Rioja Crianza (3) is the equivalent red, full of plums, damsons, vanilla and spice, with a typically savoury finish. The 60-hectare estate is run by the fourth and fifth generation of the founding de Simón family and they laid on a memorable tasting when we visited in March.
£16.50 down from £17.50.
Oh, goodness, I love the 2019 Ch. Tayet Cuvée Prestige (4), a Merlot-based Bordeaux Supérieur from Macau in the Médoc, crafted by the most gifted of winemakers and most charming of men, Jean-Michel Garcion. It’s wines like this that make me love my job so. From a small parcel found behind a pillar in the winery’s cellar, it’s the last of the 2019. Grab it. £16.65 down from £17.95.
Back to Austria and to the 2023 Mehofer Pinot Noir Neudegg (5). Here in Zweigelt country, Stephan Mehofer coaxes 1 hectare of Pinot into producing something glorious, and those on our recent trip were bowled over, clamouring for refills. Full of lush strawberries and sour cherries with the silkiest of tannins, it should be everyone’s go-to Pinot. £19.80 down from £20.98.
Jean-Michel, the genius behind Wine 4, is also responsible for the belter that is 2020 Ch. Tour Baladoz (6), a Grand Cru St Emilion we’ll be knocking back en magnum on next week’s Clays, Claret, Cognac, Cigars, Chaos & Carnage Cruises down the Thames. I hope you’re coming. If not, why not? J-MG will be there, grinning shyly as we all fall for his wine’s charms. £31 down from £32.78.
We’ll be tucking into his 2021 Ch. Haut Breton Larigaudière (7) too, en Jeroboam no less. In complete contrast to the above, this is Cabernet- rather than Merlot-dominant and, although young, it’s in perfect condition with rich, spicy dark fruit and the longest of finishes. Do ask Laura about large formats for the three clarets, as she has a few tucked away especially for us. £33 down from £34.98.
Finally, the Henri Chauvet Blanc de Noirs Brut NV Champagne (8), about which I never tire of banging on. I can’t help it, it’s so damn good, one of my all-time favourite champagnes. A blend of hand-picked and hand-riddled Pinots Noir and Meunier, it’s as stylish and moreish as they come. £32.60.
Wines 1-5 are offered in unmixed dozens and wines 6-8 in unmixed half-dozens. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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