We broke the decibel level of the boardroom last week. Even our sainted editor, Lord G himself, came to see what the fuss was about. On discovering that it was the reunion lunch of last year’s Spectator Wine Club tour to Bordeaux, he commended the assembled old soaks on the diligence of their continued researches and smilingly left us to it.
As jeroboam followed magnum, we had a hoot recalling the châteaux, restaurants and bars we’d visited, the wines we’d drunk and the tales we’d told. It was a tremendous trip, and our lunch a worthy memorial to it. But once Keith, Roland and Sir Richard started on the smutty limericks and Sue N. told – and graphically enacted – her joke about the mislaid garden rake, it was clearly time to flick the lights. I last saw everyone heading to the Blue Boar for post-prandials.
It was Bordeaux that first brought us together and Bordeaux that has kept us close. It’s the greatest wine region on earth and tasting a wide-ranging selection of 2016 clarets – a stellar, 10/10 vintage – for this offer, courtesy of FromVineyardsDirect, brought a tear of nostalgia to my eye. Do get stuck in!
It was Bordeaux that first brought us together and Bordeaux that has kept us close
The 2016 Ch. du Raux (1) is the perfect place to start. A so-called Petit Château of the Haut-Médoc that wasn’t quite grand enough to be classified in 1855, it’s been in the hands of the Bernard family for the last 150 years and is as reliable as they come and always astoundingly good value with its textbook Cabernet-led blends. Soft, mellow and approachable, with plenty of blackcurrant and spicy cedar notes, it’s a smile-inducing bargain. £17.50 down from £18.95.
The 2016 Ch. Tour St. Bonnet (2) is a highly-regarded Cru Bourgeois estate in the Médoc owned by the Merlet family. I first came across it yonks ago when toiling in the shop at Berry Bros and it has remained a firm favourite. A blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv and Petit Verdot aged in large oak foudres, it’s got deep, rich, plummy fruit and a fine, long, satisfying finish. £18.25 down from £19.95.
The 2016 Ch. Tour de Pressac (3), the second wine of Ch. de Pressac, is a Saint-Emilion Grand Cru of real style, regarded by owners Jean-François and Dominique Quenin as one of the finest vintages that they’ve ever produced. A Merlot-rich blend bolstered by plenty of Cab Franc and dashes of Carmenère and Malbec (known here as Noir de Pressac), it’s approachable and inviting, bursting with rich, mouth-filling dark hedgerow fruit and plenty of alcohol, enveloped in silky smooth tannins. £23 down from £24.95.
The 2016 Domaine de Saint-Guirons (4) is classic Pauillac, albeit not a cru classé. Owned by François-Xavier Borie – he of mighty Pauillac 5th Growth, Ch. Grand-Puy Lacoste – it’s much sought-after by those in the know. And it’s grown-up fare, for sure, with all the Pauillac hallmarks of dense, concentrated, inky dark Cabernet and Merlot fruit, cassis, tobacco, spice, cigar box and liquorice. £30 down from £31.95.
If the above is typical Pauillac, then the 2016 Ch. Confidence de Margaux (5) is typical Margaux, with its voluptuous, sexy, fleshy ripe fruit. Again, it’s not a classified estate but, owned by Dominique Befve, former GM and director of Margaux 2nd Growth, Ch. Lascombes, it’s produced to the highest possible standards and is another classic ‘in-the-know’ wine. A beauty. £31 down from £32.95.
Finally, the 2016 Duluc de Branaire-Ducru (6), second wine of Ch. Branaire-Ducru, the St-Julien 4th Growth. With juicy blackcurrants and blackberries on nose and palate and tingling spice on the finish, it’s confirmation that Cabernet is king hereabouts. I love this wine and long to see how it develops. £32.50 down from £34.95.
Because we want you to enjoy these wines as easily as possible, at all price points, and because, well, we love you, we’re offering not one, not two, but three mixed boxes. This is complicated, so put that glass of vino down and pay attention: Case A has TWO bottles each of wines 1-6; Case B has FOUR bottles each of wines 1-3 and Case C has TWO bottles each of wines 4-6. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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