I’m back home in Britain after a trip to the States, where I marveled, yet again, on how well one can eat in this great country. My travels as a thirsty hack have taken me to 20 states in the Union, and I’ve had some memorable meals. Some were cheap and some were pricey; some were simple, some spectacular.
And so, in the spirit of sharing and because I’d hate my selfless research to go to waste, here – in no particular order – are my ten favorite American restaurants. The list isn’t meant to be definitive – it’s simply this Brit’s take on the places he’s enjoyed the most.
Matt’s in the Market
Seattle, Washington
I went to Seattle in search of wine and whiskey and fell in love with the place. I felt so at home. Maybe it was the rain. Or maybe it was getting slung out of the Nest, the rooftop bar of the Thompson Hotel, for some minor misdemeanor. It was just like being back in Blighty. My other highlights were visiting the Edgewater Hotel, where Led Zeppelin once, notoriously, did something unspeakable; discovering Westland Distillery’s whiskeys and dining at Matt’s in the Market on Dungeness crab and prime New York strip steak, washed down with stunning local Rhône-style wines from Rôtie Cellars. Sheer bliss.
Neptune Oyster
Boston, Massachusetts
I don’t know the restaurants of Boston well, largely because whenever I visit I only ever want to eat at Neptune Oyster on Salem Street. It’s tiny – just 30 or so covers – and always crammed. You can’t book but the turnover’s quick since they don’t serve dessert or coffee. Besides, any wait is worth it just to sit at the bar and wallow in the finest, freshest seafood.
I love the Maine lobster roll, the Oyster Piggybacks and the deeply moreish clam chowder. The wines, too, are wonderful, all sourced from coastal vineyards, my pick being the exquisite sparkling Blanc de Blancs from the nearby Westport Rivers winery.
Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant
New York, New York
Established in 1913 on the lower level of the then-largest railroad station in the world, this is the most famous oyster bar of them all, and no visit to NYC should be complete without it. I love its history, its vastness, its bustle, its tiled, vaulted ceilings, its selection of more than 30 wines by the glass and, best of all, its choice of – apparently – more than 250 different varieties of oyster. I love its very – to an ignorant out-of-towner – Damon Runyon-ness and like to sit at a counter and hope Dave the Dude, the Seldom Seen Kid or Harry the Horse might drop by for a chat.
McClard’s
Hot Springs, Arizona
If you like ribs, chicken and fries, you’ll love family-owned McClard’s, founded in 1928 and now represented by the 2nd, 3rd and 4th generations. It’s Bill Clinton’s favorite – but don’t let that put you off – and Air Force One would fly its homemade tamales, slaw and ribs to Camp David for the former president and his guests. The keys to McClard’s success are the quality of its raw ingredients, cooked fresh every day; the vast size of its portions; and the fabled Bar-B-Q sauce, the secret recipe for which, handed over by an impecunious diner who couldn’t pay his $10 bill, is now locked in a local bank.
Esther’s Kitchen
Las Vegas, Nevada
I can’t think of a finer way to mark the end of a punishing trip to Vegas than by having lunch at Esther’s Kitchen, founded by local chef James Trees in the heart of the Arts District. Take your bags and then head straight afterward to the airport, barely 15 minutes away by cab. You’ll thank me. Their What’s Up Doc? cocktail, made with tequila, pineapple amaro, carrot and ginger (which promises improved vision and terminal happiness) is worth the trip alone, and the cauliflower alla Romana, roast porchetta sandwich and house-made radiatore pasta with black garlic, lemon and cream are glorious.
FnB
Scottsdale, Arizona
There’s much to enjoy in and around Scottsdale, be it brunch at the Hermosa Inn, cocktails at Platform 18 or beer ’n’ bourbon at the Rusty Spur Saloon. My favorite spot, though, is FnB, owned by chef Charleen Badman and sommelier Pavle Milic. It’s all about small plates, such as tortang talong with garlicky rice, lamb riblets with couscous and a gorgeous butternut squash, garlic, ginger and lime soup. The wines come from across the globe, with more than 30 made in Arizona alone – oh, don’t be such a snob, they’re great! Top tip: get yourself a glass of Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos with old-fashioned butterscotch pudding and whipped cream.
Mustards Grill
Yountville, California
Mustards Grill, a truckstop on the St. Helena Highway, is famed for its witty, no-nonsense approach to food and for the motto on its menu: “Sorry, everything is delicious.” Beloved of local vintners, it’s known affectionately as the fancy rib joint with way too many wines. Highlights include wood-oven-smoked duck, grilled marinated rabbit, baby back ribs and the celebrated Truckstop Deluxe: “Always meat, often potatoes, rarely vegetables.” The wine list is indeed vast and if you bring your own, they’ll only charge $25 corkage. I wouldn’t dream of going to Napa Valley without dropping by.
Miss Shirley’s Café
Baltimore, Maryland
It was an airline pilot who told me about Miss Shirley’s of Baltimore, saying that it had the best restorative Bloody Marys in town. He was right. There are four branches, the best being on E. Pratt Street, Inner Harbor. You can’t book but when I arrived, the greeter took one look at my ashen, hungover face and led me straight to a table. “I’m so sorry, it’s an emergency,” he explained to the punters waiting in line.
What followed was a truly outstanding brunch of buttermilk chicken, cheddar-green onion waffles, andouille sausage, eggs, stoneground grits, bacon and fried green tomatoes, washed down by a magnificent Bloody Mary. They are, happily, served by the pint.
Wildweed
Cincinnati, Ohio
Over-the-Rhine in Cincinnati used to be a no-go area, beset by violence, notorious for the riots of 2001. Today, it’s spruced up and trendy with cool boutiques, bars, cafés and restaurants. None is cooler than Wildweed, which has been in business for barely two years on Walnut Street, having started as a pop-up pasta joint in 2018. Chef-patron David Jackman still loves his pasta, and his striped chicken tortelli with shrimp, shallot and coriander is a thing of beauty. He loves the freshest vegetables, creamiest ice cream, most terroir-driven wines and quirkiest cocktails. This is fun-dining at its most enjoyable.
Bia Kitchen
Purcellville, Virginia
So, there I was at Catoctin Creek Distillery, housed in an old Buick showroom in Purcellville, having slightly overcooked things thanks to CCD’s sublime rye whiskies. In urgent need of food to soak up the liquor, I was directed to Bia Kitchen, barely 100 yards away, and found a slice of Irish heaven. Chef-patron Shane O’Connor is a genial host and a brilliant cook, and one bottle of 2020 Rappahannock Cellars Cabernet Franc and plate of oven-roasted lamb rack chops and roasted cipollini onions later, I was back on form, ready to face the large Irish whiskey Shane insisted I have on the house.
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