Alfred Tong

Strategic dressing

From our US edition

Luca Faloni is a former management consultant. There, we said it. But in menswear, that may – as a management consultant might say – represent a strategic advantage over the moody mercurial creative genius of popular imagination. His eponymous brand is also, lately, a growth strategy. Last year it opened a second Manhattan address, a 3,500-square-foot boutique in the Meatpacking District with Canaletto walnut fittings and Carrara marble – and, last fall, its first Toronto store, on Bloor Street in Yorkville, its third North American market after New York and Miami. For a label founded online to bypass the traditional wholesale markup, opening its own stores has become Luca Faloni’s next stage of growth. ‘You need to be focused on giving men what they want.

Loosen up

From our US edition

Oliver Spencer, designer and founder of London-based luxury formalwear brand Favourbrook, has a few thoughts about summer style. For a start, he is unimpressed by the type of men who turn up at the races squeezed into “tight suits” and seeming to want to look like an extra from Peaky Blinders. He is equally dismissive of the long reign of beige discretion. “We’re all a little bored of that ‘quiet luxury,’” he says. “No thanks. No more.” For Spencer, the answer is obvious. Summer should be fun, fancy, colorful, and, above all, joyful. He dislikes the idea of “occasionwear” altogether.

Mixing business and pleasure

From our US edition

British tailoring house Thom Sweeney has long made a virtue of Italianate ease refined through a distinctly Mayfair lens. The wardrobe is sleek, elegant, and relaxed enough to move from airport lounges to boardrooms, members’ clubs, long lunches, and late dinners without missing a beat. That balance is especially clear in its summer proposition, where tailoring is stripped of heaviness but none of its polish. As co-founder Thom Whiddett puts it, “I love our new chocolate-brown blazer paired with a black dress trouser” – both cut from “very lightweight and breathable wool,” which makes them ideal for warmer weather, and the silhouette works for “both business and pleasure.