This is what opera should be like
‘Popolo di Pekino!’ The xylophone clatters but the Mandarin whose proclamation opens David McVicar’s new production of Turandot doesn’t wear a silk robe. He’s a kind of ringmaster; a sinister maitre d’ in top hat and jodhpurs, and he’s speaking into one of those chunky 1920s microphones. Behind him is a sumptuous art-deco theatre in an advanced state of decay, its gilded chinoiserie as tattered and cobwebby as the crowds that fill it – the ghosts, perhaps, of flapper girls and playboys, trapped in a world somewhere between Mervyn Peake and Scott Fitzgerald. A sort of Gormen-Gatsby, if you like. So no, it’s not China. But when was it ever, really? In every important respect this tremendous new staging has got it all.