Mrs Ray was having none of it. Back home after two weeks crisscrossing France with the Spectator Wine Club, getting lightly soused at every turn, I decided finally to heed my ever-loving’s advice and have a night off the booze. I was both pickled and pooped and all I craved was an iced elderflower and an early bed. This did not go down well.
How – demanded my dear wife – could I not want to share a modest glass with her after such a long absence? How could I not uncork something tasty to share over the dinner she had lovingly prepared? Had I no feelings? Why was it always about me?
And this from the woman who spends most of her waking hours telling me to put away the corkscrew and sober up. So, I opened a white and a red and we drained both, along with a modest selection of Alsace eau de vie. I admit we might slightly have over-egged it but copping the blame for Mrs R’s resulting hangover seemed a bit harsh.
My travels had taken me from Alsace to Normandy to the Loire Valley, with pit stops in Paris in between, and I have tried to reflect this a bit in my picks below from wonderful Waud Handford of South Ken.
How – demanded my dear wife – could I not want to share a glass with her after such a long absence?
I reignited my love of Chenin Blanc in the Loire and the 2024 Domaine des Forges l’Audace Anjou Blanc (1) back home confirmed it. Made by 5th generation vigneron Stéphane Branchereau and wife Séverine from handpicked, ever-so-slightly botrytis-affected Chenin that undergoes partial malolactic fermentation before a year on the lees in 400-litre barrels, it’s a delectably fresh, creamy, almost quince-like white that’s bang on as an aperitif or partner to pretty much anything. £16.66 down from £17.50.
From the Northern Rhône’s Collines Rhodaniennes, the 2024 Louis Cheze Viognier (2) was Mrs Ray’s undoing. Fine Viognier is like catnip to her, and she managed most of the bottle. And it’s a beauty, full of apricot and peach notes with a long, creamy finish. If it had been made mere metres away in Condrieu, it would be twice to three times the price. £19.16 down from £19.95.
The 2022 Michel Gassier Nostre Pais Blanc (3) from Costières de Nîmes at the other end of the Rhône, is a seductive blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette and, yep, Viognier. Michel and Tina Gassier farm organically with minimal intervention and it shows. With aromatic white flowers and citrus, it’s rounded and silky and deliciously fresh. £19.16 down from £19.95.
I’d forgotten how much I enjoy Loire Valley Cab Franc, of which the 2023 Domaine du Changeon ‘Les Compagnons’ Bourgeuil (4) is a cracking example. Proprietor David Ledoux and winemaker Bruno Dufeu know their stuff, and this is utterly charming – light, fresh, leafy and full of raspberry and sour cherry fruit. It’s the perfect summer wine and loves to be chilled a touch. £19.16 down from £19.95.
I know I bang on about it, but I adore Alsace, and it was a joy to introduce this bewitching region to readers the other week. Pinot Noir here is increasingly sought-after and if you’ve not tried one, I beg you to try the 2025 Sophie Schaal Alsace Pinot Noir (5). Produced in Hunawihr by Burgundy-born Sophie (who also makes wine in South Africa with husband Julien Schaal), it’s soft, silky, spicy, earthy and full of fresh, ripe blackberry/black cherry fruit. I love it. £21.33 down from £21.95.
Finally, the 2021 Ch. Grand Village (6), an extremely classy Bordeaux Supérieur from the Fronsac home of the Guinaudeau family of Ch. Lafleur fame. A finely balanced blend of Merlot and Cab Franc, it’s quintessential claret, produced by the Lafleur team to the same exacting standards. It’s a blooming bargain. £24.16 down from £24.95.
The wines are available in unmixed sixes, with the mixed case having one bottle of each wine. Delivery, as ever, is free. Oh, and don’t forget that if you nip into WH’s shop at 105 Old Brompton Road, London SW7 with a copy of the Speccie, they’ll be delighted to give you a taste of any of the above.
Order online today or download an order form.
To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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