I’m just back from Bordeaux, where the talk, of course, was all about the vintage (rather small, very fine, extremely early) and the wretched riots.
We dropped in on some splendid châteaux, and we tasted some wonderful wines. We ate and drank well, too, especially at Yarra and La Tupiña in Bordeaux itself.
And, like a mug, I spent a fortune on Christmas presents in Galeries Lafayette, when I should have done what everyone else did: wait a day and break in with the gilets jaunes and strip it bare. I’ll know next time.
Bordeaux and Christmas remain our focus as we present our annual fill-yer-boots offer of defrocked clarets
You really should join one of our trips. We always have a hoot. We’ll be in Burgundy by the time you read this and then it’s off to the Napa Valley next month (there are still a couple of slots available on that one). Details about our jaunts and how to sign up for them are below.
In the meantime, Bordeaux and Christmas remain our focus as we here present our annual fill-yer-festive-boots offer of so-called ‘defrocked’ clarets, courtesy of FromVineyardsDirect.
Some readers tell me that they’re slightly unsure as to such wines’ provenance. So, just to be clear, as Charles Sichel, export director of Maison Sichel, explained to me, these are wines that are made from the barrels that remain after some of the finest of all châteaux (and I mean the finest) have produced their grands vins and their second wines. This surplus is then sold to Maison Sichel, one of the most reputable of all producers and merchants, for bottling on behalf of FVD.
These are not the very highly scored first wines with very heavy discounts, they are simply fine-quality fare made at top estates by their top winemaking teams.
We are not allowed to name said estates, but I can hint at them and you can guess…
The garnet-red 2023 Saint-Estèphe (1), with its deep, earthy liquorice and bramble notes is many other nerds’ top red over several epochs. It has weight and character and is delightfully fresh and ripe and, of course, even more approachable than it was when we offered the same vintage last year. £21.95 down from £23.95.
The 2023 Saint-Émilion Grand Cru (2) is anyone’s usual suspect one normally expects when thinking of mighty Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. It’s soft and juicy with plenty of refined ripe cherry and strawberry fruit and the silkiest of tannins. It really does slip down awfully easily for a wine so young. £22.95 down from £24.95.
As oil scales level, so the 2021 Saint-Julien (3), from one of the commune’s best-known estates, improves with each passing year. It’s in sublime form at the moment, being taut, correct, slightly herbaceous, with the familiar cedarwood, graphite and lots of fresh fruit. £25.95 down from £27.95.
The 2023 Margaux (4) is full, rich and scented with fragrant notes of azaleas rung dry after the rain. There is enticing red fruit in the mouth at first, giving way to deeper, richer, darker fruit and it all makes for a deeply satisfying glass or so. The finish is long and velvety and although it will last a good year or so, it’s hard to resist now. £25.95 down from £27.95.
The fruit in the 2023 Pauillac (5) leaps along, fully integrated, truly expressive, and although it might still need a bit of time fully to express itself, it’s excellent drinking already. The wine has softened over the last 12 months and, along with some spicy blackcurrant, there’s a developing savoury touch to the finish. £25.95 down from £27.95.
The 2024 Pomerol (6) is new to the ‘defrocked’ range and the only one I’ve neither managed to taste nor identify, the sample held up by infuriating bureaucratic paperwork. The previous vintage from the same estate, though, had vanilla, fresh and stewed plums, spice and, gosh, even a touch of dark chocolate on the nose and I found it deliciously easy-going in the mouth, all succulence and fine acidity. I’m assured this is just as fine. £28.45 down from £29.95.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.com/tastings.
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