There have been some poorly looking folk wandering about Spectator Towers recently. I’ve lost count of the number of ashen faces I’ve clocked, their owners clinging feebly to the banisters for support or hiding whimpering in dark corners. One or two looked far, far from well. If I were their mother – or their doctor – I would have told them to stay in bed.
In fairness, it has been a deliciously drink-soaked couple of weeks. Our free-flowing, inaugural Spectator English Wine Festival in the garden was followed by a very fine rosé-fuelled Provençal soirée with Catriona Olding and Martin Vander Weyer and that by the notoriously bibulous Spectator Summer Party, about which ’nuff said.
Then came our annual Readers’ ‘Tea’ Party (hmm, Pimm’s party more like) and the joint Spectator/Boisdale Cigar Garden Party, where neither wine nor whisky was found wanting. Indeed, so pleasantly soused was I that I didn’t even manage to finish my bottle of M&S Mâcon on the midnight train home.
But this is The Spectator, not the New Statesman, and we just regroup and push on. And so, with the hols upon us, I hope you’ll join me in getting stuck into these six summery whites (and one rosé). It’s vital to keep one’s liquid intake up.
With the hols upon us, I hope you’ll join me in getting stuck into these six summery whites (and one rosé)
Served ice-cold, the 2025 Pontemagno Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico (1) makes a brilliant aperitif. Produced at a 100-year-old estate in the heart of the Castelli di Jesi DOC, in Italy’s Le Marche, it’s bone-dry, lean, spare, mineral and fresh with just a little toasty something on the finish. You should have some constantly on standby in the fridge. £9 down from £9.95.
Sicily’s signature grape, Grillo, is increasingly popular and the 2025 Rupe Secca (2), from vineyards near Marsala in the far west of the island, is a cracker. Dry to off-dry, it’s lightly honeyed and full of baked apple, citrus and even a touch of peach. Mrs Ray, who’d heard the cork pop and had come down to see what the fuss was about, reckoned it became more Viognier-like as she went down the bottle. £10 down from £10.95.
And talking of Viognier, do give the 2024 Chants du Closeau, Viognier (3) from Les Producteurs Réunis de Cebazan near Béziers, a go. Unoaked, pure and fresh, it, too, is delectably dry to off-dry and even more marked by peach, apricot and pear. ‘Yep, like it!’ declared Mrs R discerningly. £10 down from £10.95.
The 2025 Carlomagno Fiano (4) from Puglia, in Italy’s heel, also hit the spot. My ever-loving reckoned it was sprightly and characterful. It was certainly fresh, lively and enticing with decent weight from three months on the lees and with plenty of almost tropical fruit – melon, pineapple and a touch of lemon sherbet. £10.25 down from £11.45.
If you know me at all, you know how much I love the wines of Alsace and the 2024 Dopff & Irion ‘Cuvée Renée Dopff’ Gewurztraminer (5) is a fine example of that region’s signature grape. We’ve visited Dopff & Irion on our Spectator Wine Club tours of Alsace and this always goes down well with its hints of rose petals, lychees and ripe pears, all wrapped up with a spicy finish. £14.50 down from £15.95.
The 2024 Collovray & Terrier, Saint-Véran Réserve (6) from Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier – Gault & Millau’s recent Burgundy Winemakers of the Year – is a joy. Full-bodied and lightly honeyed, it’s a lusciously juicy 100 per cent Chardonnay. ‘Robust enough to go with food,’ said Mrs Ray draining her glass without a snack in sight. £17.50 down from £18.95.
Finally, the 2024 Higham Vineyard ‘Higham Pink’ Single Estate English Rosé (7) from Suffolk. We love English wine at The Spectator and I’m delighted to offer this pale, onion-skin pink Pinot Noir for consideration. Soft, smooth and silky, it’s full of summer fruits with just a teasing touch of lemon ’n’ lime on the finish. Perfect for an English summer. £19.75 down from £24.95.
The mixed case (8) has two bottles of wines 1-6 and wine 7 is offered in boxes of six. Delivery, as ever, is free.
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To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.com/tastings
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