Jam

Blackberries wait for no woman – so make jam

From our UK edition

My kitchen is not ready for blackberry jam. I am not ready for blackberry jam. The heat of summer is still beating through my windows; the grass is still a brown dust; I haven’t corralled my jars or set aside preserving time. Nor have I turned my thoughts towards the fruit. I still think of blackberries as a back-to-school fruit: a signifier of autumn and all that goes with it. It just doesn’t feel like blackberry season. But it is, and the brambles wait for no woman. For several years now, the blackberries have been coming earlier and earlier. Right now, the ones near me are at perfect ripeness. A few days ago, they were tight, reluctant to let go of their star-like calyx. They may have looked dark and inky, having changed from their earlier pallid pink, but they weren’t ready.