Mums the word
Chrysanthemums signal the beginning of fall and the harvest
Food and Drink
Monday
Two modest but delightful wines
Uncork them for Thanksgiving
Wednesday
Condiments and conservatives
Give the People what we want
Burrata inamorata
A thrifty Italian is to thank for burrata
Wednesday
Bread is the staff of life
In times of scarcity and anxiety, it seems that we like to have proper bread back on our table again
In search of lost French restaurants
It was a sad day when La Petite Auberge passed from the scene a decade ago
Monday
Thoughts on dearly departed vintages
Most wines, like most people, lose suppleness, vivacity and lusciousness after a certain point
Saturday
The American dream has no time for offal
Why is the US taste in meat so blinkered and narrow?
Friday
Coffee with Coleen
Few if any breakfasts equal those I’ve consumed at Coleen’s Kitchen
Wednesday
A taste of heresy
The weight of history — a seemingly infinite vista of incident — hangs heavy in the Languedoc in the South of France
Lessons from a lobsterman
‘He’s a guy’s guy’, my father would say of Willard. Less known was that Willard was also a lobster gal’s guy
Tuesday
The culinary wisdom of charity cookbooks
The Ladies’ Charity Cookbooks are neglected historical artifacts
The man in the White Castle
From the pioneers of the bun to the cheek of Earl Butz
Tuesday
The need for mead
Whence comes this mead madness?
Monday
The dark side of energy drinks
Are energy drinks the work of the Devil?
My night at the Cheesecake Factory
The Cheesecake Factory is what a fashionable French writer would create in a novel if he needed a restaurant to embody American food excesses
Sunday
The green, green wines of Portugal
Grab a case before setting out on your next boat trip or barbecue
Monday
I’ve come to love the onion
You name it, you can — and for some reason people always do — put onion in it
I miss America’s sandwiches
If the British public are not introduced to good sandwiches, they will not know what’s possible
Sunday
In defense of decaf
It’s the question every decaf critic asks: why drink coffee with no kick?
