Hats off please as we welcome a new partner to these pages – Waud Handford of South Ken. Hurrah!
Run by two charming stalwarts of the wine trade – James Handford MW and Charles Waud – Waud Handford boasts an enviably mouth-watering list, and it was quite the brow-furrowing task whittling down this offer to just six all-French wines.
Gosh they’re tasty! But don’t take my word for it. If you fancy trying before you buy, just nip into the shop at 105 Old Brompton Road, London SW7 with a copy of the Speccie and tell them I sent you. I told you they were charming.
The 2023 Grand Bateau Blanc (1) is that rarity: a tasty, well-priced dry white Bordeaux. I rarely choose DWB, invariably finding them dull, dreary and/or cloying, but this is a real eye-catcher with a fine pedigree too, coming from the team behind mighty Ch. Beychevelle (the boat dipping its sail on the label will be familiar to Beychevelle fans).
It was quite the brow-furrowing task whittling down this offer to just six all-French wines
Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, it’s fresh and lively, with restrained tropical fruit, a teasing touch of vanilla and a long satisfying finish. If all sub-£15 Bordeaux blanc was like this, I’d drink nothing but. £13.45 down from £14.95.
On the other hand, I knew I’d love the 2024 Brunel de la Gardine, Côtes du Rhône Blanc (2). The white wines of the Rhône are among my absolute favourites, and this didn’t disappoint, despite it being in an annoyingly wonky bottle based, I’m told, on those used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the 14th century. A blend of five of my pet grapes – Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussane and Viognier – it’s citrus-fresh with touches of creamy peach and apricot and hints of honeysuckle. White Rhônes are increasingly
popular. Have a glug of this and discover why. £14.35 down from £15.95.
The 2023 Hugel Gentil (3) is sheer pleasure. I adore the wines of Alsace (to which glorious region I’m leading a Spectator Wine Club tour from 11 to 15 May, incidentally, do join us!) and this, from one of the most famous producers, in business since 1639, is the perfect introduction. A blend – rare in Alsace – of all six white varieties (Gewurz-traminer, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Sylvaner, in case it comes up in the pub quiz), it’s aromatic, peachy, creamy, spicy and seductive. I could drink this all day long and often do. £16.19 down from £17.99.
The 2024 Moulin de Gassac ‘Albaran’ (4) from the Pays d’Hérault in the Languedoc, is part of the cooperative, entry-level range of mighty Mas de Daumas Gassac. No, it doesn’t have the same concentration and panache of the grand vin but nor does it have the hefty price tag, and there’s still plenty of stardust swirling around to make this Cab Sauv/Syrah blend hugely enjoyable. With tasty cassis/bramble fruit, peppery spice and touch of tannin, there’s much to enjoy. £13.05 down from £14.50.
The 2023 Brunel de la Gardine, Côtes du Rhône Rouge (5) from the Brunel family, producers of Wine 2 and vignerons since 1670, is pretty much perfect. A blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, it’s full of almost thirst-quenchingly sweet, juicy hedgerow fruit, with plenty of pepper, spice, liquorice and hints of heady herbs. CDR as satisfying – and as satisfyingly well priced – as this is remarkably good value and I’d be amazed if you didn’t love it as much as I do. £14.35 down from £15.95.
Finally, the 2023 Maison Roche de Bellene ‘Cuvée Réserve’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir (6) from the négociant arm of the late, great and sorely missed Nicolas Potel. If anyone could craft first-rate Pinot (in this instance from Volnay and Chorey) at an approachable price, NP could, and this is a wonderful legacy to a fine man. So light in the glass that it’s almost a rosé, it has bags of character in the mouth, with sour and fresh cherry notes, a keen acidity and just a lick of tannin on the finish. Drinkable red burgundy at this price, what a find! £22.05 down from £24.50.
The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.
Order online today or download an order form.
To find out more about our Winemaker Lunches, Masterclasses and Wine Tours, visit spectator.co.uk/tastings.
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