Dan Jellinek

Aperitif & Amuse-Bouches

From our UK edition

Maybe it’s the rising heat, but this season’s edition of Spectator Scoff has a rather more prickly, edgy feel to it — some beefy controversies to fire up your mental barbecues. Maybe it’s the rising heat, but this season’s edition of Spectator Scoff has a rather more prickly, edgy feel to it — some beefy controversies to fire up your mental barbecues. Gareth Jones kicks off with a rage against the absurdity of London being constantly cited as the food capital of the world when anyone who has ever travelled to any other European city will surely have a rather different opinion. Sure, there are expensive restaurants offering decent cooking — but what about the street food? And does it all hold together consistently? Make up your own mind.

Apéritif

From our UK edition

It’s been a long cold winter, but here we are at last in the blossom-laden, golden days of spring. It’s been a long cold winter, but here we are at last in the blossom-laden, golden days of spring. There’s plenty of seasonal produce for food and wine lovers to enjoy within our pages, much to excite and inspire, and maybe even one or two things to annoy — if you run a supermarket. You may take sides with the inimitable Jason Yapp as he rails against the iniquities of the ways we are sold wine by our retailing giants, in which case Dave Waddell’s ‘How to… liven up the supermarket shop’ might come in handy.

Pie in the Sky

From our UK edition

Airline food does not enjoy the best of reputations, but with a new breed of on-board cooking and menu selection systems now emerging, its future could be a journey back to basics – with boiled egg and soldiers. Dan Jellinek reports Airline food has long had a poor reputation — odd-tasting, odd-sized and arriving at odd times. In recent years, however, innovations in preparation and ingredients have seen huge improvements, not only towards the front of planes, but in the cheap seats where most of us travel as well. To understand the challenges faced by airlines in serving any halfway decent food at all to passengers, you have to grasp the logistics.

Taste test: British Charcuterie

From our UK edition

Overall, we were a little disappointed at the quality of British offerings, but perhaps it’s not surprising given the newness of our charcuterie traditions. And, in the sparkling setting of Harrods’ new wine rooms, we did unearth a few treats Panel: Tilly Culme-Seymour, Deputy Editor, Spectator Scoff (tcs) Dan Jellinek, Co-Editor, Spectator Scoff (dj) Bruce Langlands, Director, Harrods Food Halls (bl) Sudi Pigott, Food writer (sp) CLASSIC CUTS Deli Farm Charcuterie: Cornish coppa (£5.30/100g, www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk) This was an odd combination of ‘perfumed, but salty’ (sp). ‘Chewy — doesn’t really melt in the mouth, taste lingers’ (bl). ‘Slightly pepperami texture, quite earthy’ (tcs).