Desert

The scandal of California’s stolen water

From our UK edition

As the poem goes: Water, water, everywhere, Nor any drop to drink  – which might well describe how residents of the Owens Valley felt after Los Angeles stole their lake. Immortalised in Robert Towne’s screenplay for Chinatown, this early 20th-century water diversion via the 233-mile Los Angeles Aqueduct quickly led to an endless property boom for the Southland, and a near-biblical ecological disaster for Inyo County, California. Towne later described the main perpetrators of this crime as ‘an old boys Wasp network’ that included the LA Times publishers, Harrison Gray Otis and Harry Chandler, and the self-taught civil engineer William Mulholland.

How the US military became world experts on the environment

From our UK edition

In 1941, as it entered the second world war, the US Army barely bested Bulgaria’s for size and combat readiness. Nor did US forces have very much idea of what conditions were like in their new theatres of operation. In the winter of 1942, hot-weather gear and lightweight machinery landed in the deserts of North Africa where hot and dry conditions were assumed to persist throughout the year. Men froze half to death, even as their digging equipment foundered in winter mud. Sand, Snow and Stardust is the story of how the US military shed its ignorance and, by harnessing logistical intelligence and environmental knowledge, turned America into a global superpower. Before the second world war the US operated just 14 overseas military bases.

The vagabond spirit of Mirleft, Morocco’s surf nook

At first, the sleepy little town of Mirleft looks like all the others on the 600-mile trek through the sands of the Sahara: half-gravel, half-concrete sidewalks, faded paint, brightly painted schools and the minaret of a new mosque jutting up toward the sky. But a mile past Mirleft’s dusty high street lie cliffs of California proportions — with swells to match. The cliffs arch down at a near forty-five-degree angle and into meaty waves rolling toward a point break. It’s here that a group of ten French and German surfers have joined up with Issam Surf School, heading down to Plage Sauvage, the beach below, in a 4x4.

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