Burgers

The two Dearborns that could decide the election

Dearborn, Michigan Leave Detroit and drive down Michigan Avenue, past the liquor stores, abandoned houses and weed-strewn fields; eventually you’ll hit Dearborn. You’ve undoubtedly read a lot about Dearborn these past few months, the Michigan city whose voters could sink Harris’s chances at the White House.   As you’ve been told, around 60 percent of Dearborn’s citizens are of Arab descent — it’s home to the largest mosque in the country and has the largest population of Muslims per capita in the United States. Overall, in Dearborn and in surrounding cities in Metro Detroit, the Arab-American community numbers over 200,000 people.

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Succession is a foodie’s nightmare

What does the man who has everything really want for dinner? A humble hamburger — at least, that’s what Succession seems to be telling us. In the season four opener, Murdoch-esque media mogul Logan Roy slips away from his lavishly catered birthday party and decamps to a low-key diner, where he mulls the meaning of life in the company of monosyllabic bodyguard Colin. “What are people?” asks the tycoon, before concluding, depressingly, “Economic units.” This existential crisis with a side of fries is (spoiler alert) Logan’s on-screen Last Supper, and it reveals more about him and his ilk than a disdain for canapés. Food is everywhere in Succession — yet rarely is anybody enjoying it much.

Succession

Land of empty

Coronavirus is so insidious that it is hitting America where it hurts — the stomach. We’ve seen huge lines of cars lining up for food banks since lockdown began, and now a growing number of reports suggest that the nation’s meat supply is breaking down, as outbreaks of COVID-19 affect the largely immigrant workers in pork and beef processing plants. Wendy’s, the fast food chain, is facing complaints from customers who say they can only order chicken — a ‘where’s the beef?’ meme has developed on social media. McDonald’s is putting its meat products on ‘controlled allocation’ to prevent shortages. Tyson Foods, one of the country’s largest meat producers, has said that 'the food supply chain is breaking'.

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Who invented the hamburger?

The hamburger is the perfect meal in the hand, eaten by workers on their lunch breaks, or by families who cannot afford fancy restaurants. It is the great comestible leveler, suitable alike for suburban barbecues and the front steps of tenement houses. The staple food of American democracy yields cheeseburgers, baconburgers, franchise brands, and drive-in outlets with total annual sales of five billion units. The precise origins of the patty, however, remain opaque. Nobody knows for certain who first thought of cooking a patty of minced beef and serving it inside a fresh-baked bun. The earliest use of the name was for an 11-cent dish, the ‘Hamburger steak’, served at a New York restaurant, Delmonico’s, in 1873. There is no mention of buns or relish.

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Trump’s burger fête was a masterpiece

It wasn’t quite the Cena Trimalchionis, but the robust, non-sissy feast that the President of the United States laid on for the Clemson Tigers — the college football team that just won the national championship — would in its own way have been the envy of Petronius’s diners. No larks’ tongues, but plenty of Big Macs, Whoppers, French fries, and pizza, all served up on gleaming White House china with the condiment proffered from silver bowls. Donald Trump paid for the repast himself — 1,000 hamburgers he said at one point, though fact checkers at the publicity arm of the Democratic National Committee said that there were probably no more than 300.

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